Easter Research Project

Gusset
A gusset is a triangular piece of fabric that is inserted into a seam to reduce stress on that seam. It is used in areas that move a lot such as shoulders, underarms,  hems of some skirts and between legs.


Godet
A godet is an extra piece of fabric in the shape of a circle sector. It is inserted into the garment, ususally a skirt or dress, to create volume and flare.

Micheal Cinco

Gore

A gore is a shaped segment narrower at the top then the bottom. They are used to create flared skirts.

Dior

Tucking

A tuck i s a small pleat or fold in fabric that is sewn into place. A series of small parallel tucks are often used to decorate a garment or shorten it so it can be let down at a later stage. 

Darts

Darts are folds sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional shape to a garment. They are frequently used in women's clothing to provide a fit that closely follows the shape of the wearer. They are essential to give the garment a specific shape usually to enhance the wearers figure.

Two kinds of darts are common in blouses for women:

-Vertical Darts - These type of darts are sewn from the bottom of a blouse to a point generally around the bustline. They are usually found at the front or the garment and are used to pull the bottom of the blouse towords the wearer.

- Bust Darts - These are short triangle folds that provide space for breasts such that the fabric under the breasts isn't hanging it is fitted closer to the wearer.

There are several other kinds of darts also such as Arm Eye darts, H darts, French darts, Irregular darts and princess seam.

Boning

Boning is plastic or metal stiffening strips that are used to support a garment. Usually found in strapless dresses or corsets, but can also be used to stiffen or stabilize a neckline, shaping a waist area or forming a sleeve.

Christian Dior

Jean Paul Gaultier

Layering

Layering is sewing different layer of fabric that have been treated or manipulated differently together to create volume or pattern on a garment.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Dior

Knotting

Knotting is used to create decoration and texture in a garment.

Easter Research Project

Ruching
Ruching is a sewing technique where the fabric is gathered in a repeating pattern to create ruffles or a scalloped edge. It is often used as decoration or to create visual detail on a garment.

Christian Dior

Fraying

Fraying is when the unseamed edge of the fabric begins to wear away. The weave of the fabric begins to come undone. This is used as a decorative technique on the edges of a garment.

Balmain

Alexander McQueen

Pleating

Pleating is a fold created in fabric by doubling it over on itself and then pressing or sewing it into place. There are sever different types of pleating.

Box Pleat - a flat double pleat made by folding under the fabric on either side of it

Inverted Pleat - a box pleat reversed so that the fullness is turned inward

Kick Pleat - pleat in back of a straight skirt to allow ease in walking

Knife Pleat - a single pleat turned in one direction.

There are many other kinds of pleats, any type of fold in fabric is classed as a pleat.

Prada - Spring/Summer 2012

Dior - Spring/Summer 2012

Gathering

Gathering is creating a series of small folds or puckers in fabric by pulling tight a thread in a line of stitching. It is used as a decorative effect in a garment or to create volume ion a garment.

Alexander McQueen

Easter Research Project

Tailoring
Tailoring is to make or alter a garment to a persons specific measurements or requirements so that it fits them perfectly.

Vivienne Westwood

Tom Ford

Draping

Draping is the way in which cloth is hung in loose folds around the body. This way the fabric flows with the body. The fabric can also be pinned to create extra drapes or folds.

Jenny Packham

Bias Cut

Bias cut is when the fabric is cut diagonally across the grain of the fabric. it is used to create garments that follow the body curves. A bias cut is any diresction in the fabric which does not exactly flow in the direction of the weft yarn or wrap yarns. Fabric cut on a bias has maximum stretch.

John Galliano

Madeleine Vionnet

Asymmetry

Asymmetric garments have different patterns on the left and right. The garments aren't symmetric. The pattern used to create both sides of the garment is different.

Mary Katrantzou

Vivienne Westwood